Material Selection Info
- Keeps shape once fully cured
- Hard and firm for applications seeking those characteristics
- Easy for body shops/customizers to add, change, or manipulate shape
- If quality part, easier to paint versus urethane after-market aero parts that have surface adhering issues
- Can be made light-weight if within skill of manufacturer.
- Repairable
- Long lasting with proper care. No rust and no warpage (if made or cured properly)
- Generally limited in flexibility and brittle
- Prone to cracking or disintegrating upon minor to heavy impact
- If made improperly or poor fitting, because FRP products are “thermosets” and shape cannot be re-heated, a shop will have to manipulate shape by shaving, adding, and worse case… chopping, adding, and pasting together. This is the main reason to avoid poorly made FRP products
- We use grade A UV protected marine gel coat as the primary surface coat. For those looking to add automotive clear coat for added weather protection and increased gloss, the surface coat can be easily sanded for application.
- 5.07oz 2x2 3k Twill Weave Carbon Fiber
- 5.07oz 3k Plain weave Carbon Fiber
FRP
In simple terms, ALL composite products, which are usually manufactured using a matrix of resins (polymer) & fabrics (fibers), are considered to be FRP (Fiber-Reinforced-Plastic or Polymer). This includes fiberglass, carbon, and Kevlar (aramid) made products.
They are considered to be “thermosets,” meaning, as the product fully cures and hardens through thermo (heat) reaction, the shape of the products are “set.” They cannot be “re-heated” to reform or reshape. This is an opposite characteristic of “thermoform” products, such as polyurethane, where the materials can be re-heated to re-form its shape.
FAQ Alert
Often times we are asked, “Are your products fiberglass or FRP?”
Because of what we believe to be somewhat deceiving marketing tactics of companies within the after-market aero industry, most consumers and even avid enthusiasts have been successfully led to believe that FRP products and fiberglass products are two different types of material. Fiberglass made products have left a bad taste over the years and certain companies will make a serious effort to distinguish fiberglass and FRP (or create some other fancy name) when they are, in fact, the same thing.
A company can call their fiberglass-made product “FRP,” however when asked if FRP is fiberglass, they can truthfully say “not really“, because FRP is a general categorization for all composite parts. Is a fruit an apple? Not really. Is an apple a fruit? Yes. We hope this makes sense because the technicality has really led to confusion among consumers.
Just to clarify and just for the record, Shine Auto Project is stating that all fiberglass made products are considered FRP. FRP is simply a general categorization for fiberglass, carbon (CFRP), and Kevlar made products.
Fiberglass = FRP (They are, in fact, the same thing. Some topics are debatable… this is not one of them)
Having said that, fiberglass products are not “bad” products. Generally, fiberglass products have their pros and cons and it really all depends on application. From experience, they are fine for spoilers and wings, but are not ideal for bumpers because of brittleness and limited flexibility for fitting ease and absorbing impact of daily mishaps.
Just like everything else, not all manufacturers produce products the same way or at least with equal quality as composite products are generally hand-crafted and human error is always of concern. There are well made fiberglass products just as there are poorly made fiberglass products. Over the past decade, aero after-market companies have flooded the market with sub par fiberglass products, ultimately leaving the consumer with a bad taste forcing companies to re-invent the “image” of their products. Once again, fiberglass products are not bad products. It’s the skill and philosophy of the manufacturer that should be judged.
PROS
CONS
Shine Auto Project’s Hybrid FRP
FAQ: What is Hybrid FRP?
Through careful selection of resins, surface coats, and fabrics, Shine has been able to develop a proprietary flexible fiberglass (FRP) formula. Our products behave very similar to oem bumpers (roughly 75% of oem flexibility), however, is still worked with and prepared to paint like general fiberglass products. We have essentially eliminated some of the cons of FRP products creating the ideal material of choice for the after-market aero enthusiast.
The Shine Hybrid FRP product is heavily inspired by Ings+1’s (a popular Japanese aero parts manufacturer) “Hybrid Aero” FRP products, hence given a similar name. What had caught our attention was the unfathomable flexibility of their fiberglass (FRP) aero products, since it was generally known (and still is) for fiberglass products to be stiff and brittle. Flexibility, hence durability, has always been a highly sought after characteristic/benefit consumers have needed in search of after-market exterior aero components. Particularly, bumpers, lips, and side skirts.
Shine has invested years of research and experimentations to offer an ideal product that meets and exceeds the demands and expectations of enthusiasts looking for after market aero components. We believe Shine’s current Hybrid FRP offering is at least equal to if not better than our initial inspiration for the formula. It is a very special ,unique, and evolving formula that has taken tons of experimentations, tons of feedback from body shops, and tons of feedback from customers, to perfect. We are very confident in our formula and there are numerous satisfied customers across the globe who are enjoying the benefit our product offers.
After-market aero companies who are struggling to re-invent themselves after flooding the market with sub par fiberglass products for many years, are eager to rename their products “X (insert word or letter associated with durability/flexibility)” FRP. Any company can call or portray their products however they wish, but the truth of the matter is, not all manufacturers and their products are equal. A flexible fiberglass formula cannot be had overnight. As mentioned above, it takes years of research, experimentation, and feedback to create an ideal formula. It is very difficult to create such a formula and it is questionable if some of these companies have developed the formula or are just simply renaming the same standard fiberglass products they’ve been offering for years. Be weary and please do your research before purchasing. A good place to start is to look at testimonials and feedback on specific automotive forums for specific products (one good product from a manufacturer, does not necessarily equate to every product from the manufacturer being good.)
Carbon Fiber
The carbon fiber fabrics used in our products are manufactured by Hexcel, which is generally known to be the top producer of quality carbon fabrics in the U.S and also around the world. We use automotive standard specs…
The differences between the two are primarily aesthetic and it is really only a matter of preference when you decide on which to choose for your carbon fiber part. Because of the tighter plain weave pattern, plain weave tends to reflect less light resulting in a darker overall look compared to twill weave. Image below demonstrates visual difference.

Our general carbon fiber parts are hand-crafted using a “wet lay-up’ technique. A majority of carbon fiber parts are made using this technique as it is an industry wide standard. However, as all hand made things, quality is determined by crafter as well as the surface coat used, fabric quality, and resin used. Once again, it is the skills and philosophy of the manufacturer that should be judged as not all carbon parts are equal.
Carbon Kevlar
Carbon Kevlar is a matrix of carbon fiber strands and Kevlar strands for slightly increased thickness and added strength as Kevlar is ultimately a stronger material than Carbon fiber. The black carbon fiber strands mixed with yellow Kevlar strands give the part a greenish-yellowish hue from a distance.
We are one of the few companies in the industry willing to offer parts we generally make in carbon to be made in Carbon Kevlar -- in both plain and twill weave patterns. We’re looking to distinguish ourselves from our competitors by focusing on the needs of the enthusiasts and help them build unique setups to add variety to the automotive community.Paint Process Recommendation
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Painting Shine Auto Project Hybrid FRP Aero Parts
Recommendations by Makito Nakai
*Shine Auto Project’s Hybrid FRP Aero Parts are basically flexible fiberglass parts. FRP stands for Fiber Reinforced Plastic, and that is simply what fiberglass is. Fiberglass is considered a plastic in the composites industry. However, our parts differ from conventional FRP aero parts because we use an undisclosed combination of special surface coats, resin, and fabric to give our parts the flexible properties it needs. Conventional FRP aero parts are made with a gel coat surface, which is brittle and harder to sand. Our Hybrid FRP parts have a flexible black primer surface, exclusively formulate for us, which is easier to sand and adheres much better to other primers as well as paint. Gel coats do not adhere to paint very well, which is why paint tends to peel off if the part it is not prepped meticulously. Primer is used as the link to adhere the two.
The “VIP Special”
Materials:
1. Primer :RM Diamont DP-200
2. Flex agent: DF-25
3. Hardener: Diamont PH-10 Hardender
Ratio: 4/1/1
4 Primer (DP-200)/ 1 Hardener (PH-10 Hardener)/ 1 Flex Agent (DF-25)
4. Base Coat: Diamont RM or Glasurit (no mix)
5. Clear Coat: Daimont DC-5800 + flex agent (DF-25)
6. Hardener: DH-99 (Not the same as the primer hardener)
7. Reducer: VR-29
Ratio: 4/1/1/1
4 Clear Coat (DC-5800)/ 1 Flex Agent (DF-25) / 1 Hardener (DH-99)/ 1 Reducer: VR-29
1. Wash the bumper with Dawn original soap. This helps rid of oils and mold release on the surface of the part.
2. Sand the bumper down with 320 grit sand paper. Wet sanding is preferred because it cuts faster. You might want to use a flexible steel sheet or a block as backing to get the ultimate smooth surface.
3. After that is done. Clean the part again and let it dry.
4. Primer the part. Just make sure the whole surface is covered. If you are painting your car a dark color, it might not matter because our surface coat is a flexible black primer. However, if you’re painting the part a light color such as white, it would be best to neutralize the part with as much gray primer as possible. Spraying on a sealer should also help.
5. Let the primer dry accordingly. Maybe 2-3 hours. Wet sand the part again with 320 or 400 using the same procedure. Then use 600, 800, 1000 for the ultimate surface. 600 is usually adequate. Sanding it 800 or 1000 gives a better finish, but more work = more $$$. You get what you pay for.
6. Clean the part. Let it dry. Spray base coat.
7. Let the base coat dry. Apply Clear coat. How many passes is up to the jugdment of the sprayer/painter. Unless he’s Mr. Perfect, the clear coat will not spray on perfectly flat. The clear coat will usually be wavy. This is where “color sanding” comes in to even out the surface. Most OEM paint jobs have an orange peel texture to it as well. It is up to you if you want to match that orange peel texture or if you want a smooth mirror like finish.
8. Wait a day or two for drying time.
9. “Color Sand/Wet Sand” Sand 1000, 1200, 1500 . …. Be very careful with this procedure.
10. Buff.
